Hello folks. This shower was actively being used when this valve started to become unpredictable. It would not reliably change the water temperature and those using it would resort to quickly turning it left and right to try and get it to “catch” and change the temperature.
I would like to either swap this valve out with a new one or fix it. We’re fairly handy but this is a new area for us. I do not have experience soldering but am considering converting to pex for this short section. I’m looking for this groups feedback on either approach. Note that while I don’t have from the other side of the wall, that location is in a hallway closet and I plan to cut an access panel in there for this project.
Thanks!
Sharkbites are an option if you don’t want to do any soldering to convert to PEX. They’re expensive but if you haven’t soldered before and it’s going to be sealed up again, I would trust them over a globby amateur solder joint.
Key is to clean the copper side up very well so there isn’t a burr or old solder that breaks the seal.
I have done this exact project twice (replacing shower valve and also the plumbing behind it with pex connected to the old copper pipes with sharkbite connectors). The biggest problem I ran into was that in one instance the section of copper pipe I was trying to connect it to was slightly bent, which was preventing me from getting the sharkbite connector on all the way. Just wanted to mention that because it took a while to realize that was the issue, and that the solution was to just take a few more inches off with the pipe cutter. Using the tool to remove them after they are somewhat on a pipe already is also a lot trickier than they make it look in video examples, so it’s a good idea to look closely to make sure the pipe is exactly the right shape first (round).
Sharkbites aren’t that expensive really given that you should only need two and the shower valve replacement and other equipment you’ll need is much more expensive.
The best part of doing it this way overall was that I didn’t even have to think about how the decades old rusted mess that was the previous shower valve worked, just had to remove and dispose of it.
That feeling you get from starting fresh.
If this is anything like the valve I’ve worked on:
- Shut off main water supply
- Block drain to prevent losing parts
- Remove knob (you’ve already done that)
- Slide off sleeve from body of valve
- Pull retaining clip exposed by removing sleeve
- Partially reinstall screw from knob into valve core
- Pull valve core straight out, make note of orientation
- Clean, inspect, refurbish valve core. May need to replace o-rings or replace core entirely.
- Lightly lubricate the o-rings with plumber’s grease
- Reassemble
#2 is the most sage advice!
I watched a friend drop a screw right down the drain. Then we found out that it wasn’t ferromagnetic (the hard way, LOL).
I will never forget gettingan old, proprietary screw machined for an bath tap fitting after losing it down the drain…
Fortunately p-traps are there and should be (yea, right) removable.
But yea, whole lot better to just not let it happen. BTDT, got the badge.
I had a similar problem with my shower valve. Turns out I didn’t need to replace the whole thing, just the core. Ordered a new one from Amazon for like $20 and that fixed the problem.
The new core wasn’t a perfect fit, so I had to take apart the old one and use some of its parts in the new one (they fit perfectly). It was just a matter of unscrewing stuff and screwing it in, so it wasn’t a big deal.
This exactly. I usually take the cartridge, what you call the core, with me to the local hardware store. They’ll have 5 similar ones all slightly different, some with more adjoining parts, some with less. If you can tell the problem is just the o-rings you can save yourself quite a bit of money by just replacing those with aome silicon grease.
I was in a similar boat a number of years ago with the downstairs bathroom, what with no access panel and all. Based on that experience, which was probably 10 years ago or so at this point, I’m pretty much all in on Sharkbite fittings. That, or if you’re using copper you can use those crimp fittings that are all the rage these days. I’m good at soldering, but also: fuck soldering. Depending on the orientation it can be a real pain in the ass, and sometimes there just isn’t enough space to work in to feasibly do what you have to do with solder.
I was initially skeptical of the longevity of Sharkbite fittings but I’ve had a pair of 'em in my wall all this time without any incidents to report.
Mine was a mega builder’s grade three hole arrangement for which rebuild parts are flat out not available and which was largely apparently made from chrome plated plastic. So I replaced it with a similar but rather nicer assembly that’s at least from a company I’ve actually heard of (I think it’s a Delta, but don’t quote me).
When you’re hacking your access hole in the wall, take measures to avoid also cutting into the pipes in the process. Ask me how I know.
Sweating pipe is fun to learn if it’s not an emergency. You’ll probably get it wrong a few times though.
The bigger issue here is that the cavity isn’t sealed so this is probably the tip of the iceberg in terms of the water damage you’re going to find. Modern waterproofing systems have a rubber gasket which seals around the rough opening to divert water, but this goes under the tile.
Higher a plumber? A fair price about 700-1500USD$ and it’ll be done in 3 hours. Recommend a Moen Positemp rough in valve as the have easy handle extension kits for just this type of replacement work to account for varying wall thickness. Recommend installing ball valves in your closet and keeping it an access panel. At this point you can install the valves first and then you have everything isolated in case you get into trouble.
That looks like a real degenerate operation. Wouldn’t recommend repairing.
Use Apollo brand. Use the Apollo crimping tool: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-1-2-in-and-3-4-in-PEX-B-Crimp-Tool-69PTKH0014C/301573902#overlay
I bought the tool, used it about ten times and then returned it for a refund. Just be careful with the packaging.
Those can be impossible to get into tight spots, which is why the cinch clamps have become more popular. If it’s a concealed area, I’ll use 2 cinches or a sharkbite if I can’t solder a converter in.
