Plastic shopping bag: lasts 1000 years stuck in a bush outside a Tesco without breaking down
Carefully engineered storage medium stored in ambient temperature indoors in a case:
Plastic shopping bag: lasts 1000 years stuck in a bush outside a Tesco without breaking down
I know you didn’t mean it, but actually they break down into smaller and smaller fragments very easily because of temperatures changing, so not visible after a few winters. Maybe except areas which don’t freeze, like those plastic floating islands in the Pacific.
I gave up encoding with handbrake. It looks much worse after the fact 99% of the time, no matter which settings I use.
I’m not sure what you were trying, but this works for me:
Never use hardware encoding. That is intended for real time transcoding. There are not many settings that work since it is just sending the file to the video card and letting it do its thing.
Slower is better. If you set the software encoder to very slow it will produce an output that is very high quality per megabyte. I generally don’t care if it takes twice as long to encode it as to watch it. I queue it up and let it run over night.
Choose the right codec. I like 10 bit HEVC, because I know it will work on the clients I play it from. When you rip a DVD using MakeMKV, the video will be MPEG-2, it was designed in the 1990’s and converting the file to a modern codec will save a lot of space. I don’t reencode 4K UHD rips much since I don’t want to mess with losing the hdr or other color features that I like in watching those files.
Audio tracks: I will rip out audio for languages I don’t speak, or desctiptive audio track, but go out of my way to label things like director commentaries. I don’t reencode the audio tracks at all, you won’t save much disk space by messing with them compared to the video tracks.
Be sure to use constant quality mode too. Set the RF to around 16-18 for SD video when using x264 or x265. The lower you set it, the higher the quality is.
There are so many high quality rips out there. Bothering to rip these yourself makes not much sense, unless its very obscure stuff.
It’s the letter of the law: media shifting is legal in some places where downloading a copy from an unofficial site is not. Also, there are people out there who would not have the first idea where to look for an existing rip.
I’m old enough to remember people lying that compact discs were practically indestructible.
I think the early rounds of those trying to get people to switch to the format were motivated by the fact that tapes were easily recordable by everyone.
I have Audio-CDs from the 80s that are still playing 40 years later. And I have CDs with deep scratches that also play without problems.
Disk rot usually happens when air gets in contact with the reflective coating and oxidises it. With CD’s, it’s actually the top side you need to be worried about, as it’s right there under a thin lacquer coating. Any ding to that can expose the layer or just literally chip off a chunk of data.
At least on DVD’s it’s sandwiched inside the disk, so usually the only reason is a manufacturing error, and not really something the user can cause.
