I see a couple of i3s in buy&sell sites in my city. They’re usually 2016-2018 models selling from $9k to $15k and mileage ranging from 40k to 80k. Some of them are pure EVs and others have the range extender (~80 miles of gas range). Some have upgraded infotainment that supports wireless Apple carplay, and some have only like 80 miles of range left.
Just from the visual POV, it looks like a fun little car to use for general city driving (work, groceries, errands, etc.). An EV for less than $15k that isn’t an older generation Nissan Leaf is pretty rare to find too. Are these models any good?
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I had a 2017 i3 for about 5 years. LOVED it. I recommend avoiding the range extender, just get the full electric, 2017 or newer with more range (and a heat pump!).
Super lightweight, rear wheel drive, actually exhilarating 0-30 (mph) and more than enough power for freeway driving.
If you can charge at work or at home and the range is sufficient, they are lovely and fun things.
With any EV that old you’ll need to check the battery state of health. Batteries degrade from charging, from sitting at very low or high charges (the nmc cells at least) and time. Take the range left, divide it by half and if that still fits your needs, you should be good to go over next few years. Be sure to be able to charge at home or at work as those commuters with their smaller batteries usually won’t have the range to get you through the week without recharging.
That’s all pretty central EV advice and applies to the i3 just as it would apply to an older leaf, e-up or zoe. Other than that, what I’ve heard about the i3 was exclusively good and I don’t see how it wouldn’t be a great commuter. Haven’t driven one yet though.
Technically, anything that isn’t the latest year is an older gen Leaf. They just got a refresh.
I got a 2021 Kona Electric for $16.5k before any taxes and fees and it was not the cheapest you could get. If you’re looking for $15k out the door cost though you’d probably have to get an older year.
I’d go for the range extender option if you can. 2016 and older didn’t have the longest lasting batteries.
Be prepared to pay luxury car maintenance prices, it’s a bmw
Good summary. Also, the “S” versions have a bigger battery. These were very advanced, basically a test bed for EV tech for BMW and they sold every one at a loss. The chassis is molded carbon fiber, unfortunately, if that gets damaged in an accident, it can’t be repaired.
I am a BMW tech, and always wanted one. Unfortunately they are only RWD, and thus would be far from ideal in my area that sees heavy snow/ice.
RWD doesn’t change braking (primary cause of understeer in winter, unless you enjoy accelerating in corners on ice) and actually lends you more control in oversteer scenarios. Correcting oversteer in an FWD car is harder.
You have to actively be trying to do something stupid if RWD gets you in trouble in a car with ESP and proper winter tires.
AWD that actually drives both axles all the time is even better, but it seems EVs often tend to switch one motor off when they can anyway.
Enjoy being the slowest car on the road in the winter I guess. I have a RWD car, and even with the best winter tires you can get it sucked ass in the snow. Tried it for one month, said fuck that, parked it for the winter and bought an AWD winter car.
The chassis is molded carbon fiber
Great for salted roads, I guess… As it delivers all it’s EV torque to the rear axle…
Carbon fiber to save weight? Batteries back then were even heavier than batteries now and this is a small car, they’re meant to be light.
Isn’t RWD less of a problem on an EV than with ICE vehicles? The vehicle’s mass is more evenly distributed across the vehicle instead of being concentrated under the hood, thus moving the vehicle’s center of mass closer to the driven axle.
You still have only two wheels for acceleration. Two extremely narrow wheels.
It’s not a dragster.
Be prepared to pay luxury car maintenance prices, it’s a bmw
BMW is only luxury in north american markets. In europe most of them are economy cars, which mostly aren’t sold over here.
i3 is definitely not a luxury car.
To be fair, I said the maintenance charges would be luxury, not that bmw or the i3 were luxury.
I don’t think the i3 has worse maintenance costs over other EVs. Depends on your shop rate.
The luxury tax of the i3 though is those weird ass tires that are hard to source
Anything stopping you from running a more common tire size that’s not officially correct for it?
I did see some reviews saying to avoid the gas range extender because that requires exclusive BMW maintenance that gets expensive. So the pure EV is a better choice, and yeah I also saw recommendations to get a 2017 or newer for the bigger battery.
Rich Rebuilds ran into a bunch of trouble with it and IIRC the car acted up when the range extender wasn’t functioning. If your range requirement isn’t a lot, the non extender variant is probably cheaper too.
Rich Rebuilds purposely buys dramatically shitty cars for content.
I seriously considered one but I was just coming off of owning a car with low production numbers and the tires alone told me I was in the wrong spot. They’re staggered (so can’t be rotated) and there’s one summer and one winter model available in that size. For tires. So there’s a lot of dealer-only parts and getting people to work on it might be a challenge.
That aside, it seems form reviews that they’re pretty good cars in a lot of ways and some of the quirks can be adjusted in software with a phone app and dongle.
Some are staggered, but most are not. Depends how it was ordered. The factory winter set is not staggered.
Hm til. The tires are, still, unicorn levels of rarity so it’s a potential issue.
They’re awful.
It’s cheap because it’s total junk
Source: bmw nerd for over 2 decades. Bmw has great petrol options but wouldn’t touch their EVs yet.
my 5 years with a 2017 i3 strongly disagrees with you.
The iX, i4, and i5 are reliable with minimal battery degradation. I drove the two latter for a year each.
Any car is great for a year.
for a year each
OK. Now report back when you’ve driven one for 10 or ideally 20 years so we’ll know about actual durability and reliability.
